Putting together a pepakura file isn't difficult, so much as time-consuming. Especially the more detailed the piece, there more parts it's going to have. And you're going to have to cut out and fold all those little pieces.
I started by printing off all the parts using heavy card stock. The thicker the paper, the more rigid and durable the final model will be. Just keep in mind that the thicker the paper, the harder cutting and folding will be too.
I also hold onto large pieces of scrap that are left. You can use this to reinforce areas with extremely small tabs (you'll find a few of those), and to do resin and glue tests on.
I started out by labeling all the parts into groups; "right cheek", "Left brow", etc. This way, you can keep the parts in small bundles, and they'll be easier to find. Then all there is to do is to cut them out. If you like, you can cut and assemble different parts at a time, but I like being able to test-fit pieces together, so I cut them all out at once, and then start assembling individual areas.
*A TIP ABOUT CUTTING OUT PIECES
Small parts are easy enough to cut out accurately by eye, but when you get to straight lines over an inch, you should use your ruler to make sure the lines don't become crooked. It's not such a big deal on tabs, since they don't affect the shape of the piece, but when you're cutting out edges, a crooked piece can affect the final shape of the model.
Now that all the parts are cut out, it's time to get in there and start scoring them with your awl (or compass needle or anything sharp and pointy that won't cut through the paper). Since these are the fold lines, I recommend using your ruler on EVERY score line, even small tabs. Crooked score lines don't fold easily.
Also, keep in mind:
Also, keep in mind:
Cut lines are what you cut through (of course). Peak folds should end up with the printed line on top of the fold, while valley folds should end up with the printed lines in the bottom of the fold.
Next time, we'll be gluing this together.
No comments:
Post a Comment